In short
Long reduced to its full moon, Koh Phangan has turned into a remote-work base. The west coast, around Srithanu, holds the coworking spaces, the cafés on fibre and a community that stays year-round.
The rest of the island stays wild: winding roads, empty beaches in the north, jungle in the middle. You rent a scooter and never give it back.
What it really costs
A simple villa with a fan goes for the price of a room in a city, and a comfortable house with air conditioning stays below a European studio rent.
The line that gets away from you is food: eating local costs three times less than the Western restaurants of Srithanu, and the gap shows fast over a month.
When to go
December to March, dry and clear. October and November are the monsoon months, with roads cut and ferries cancelled.
Avoid full moon week if you are here to work: prices double and the island does not sleep.
What nobody tells you
Medical care is limited. For anything beyond a wound or a fever, you take the ferry to Koh Samui.
Scooter accidents are the leading cause of medical repatriation in the region. Renting without the right licence voids most insurance.