Savamala
Nineteenth-century warehouses taken over by clubs, galleries and murals.
Duration
1 hr 30 min – 3 hrs
Best time
In the evening
Open
Every day
Entry price
Free
Savamala is the district of nineteenth-century warehouses between the railway station and the Sava, left derelict after deindustrialisation. Clubs, galleries and artists' collectives moved in during the 2000s, precisely because the rents were nothing.
It is now under pressure: the Belgrade Waterfront development is transforming the riverfront, and one night in 2016 bulldozers illegally demolished several buildings in the district — the case, never solved, set off months of protests.
Getting there
Between the central station and the Sava quay, fifteen minutes on foot from the centre. The district is walked.
Rules on site
The district lives at night and looks dead by day: coming in the afternoon shows you little. The splavovi, the clubs on barges moored along the river, run door policies and minimum spends.