In short
Ubud is inland, an hour from the coast. Terraced rice fields, wooded gorges, temples, and a density of cafés and coworking spaces with no equal on the island.
It is where people land when they come to work rather than surf.
What it really costs
A villa with a shared pool stays reachable on a monthly let. Rents have risen sharply over five years, but stay below European prices.
The local warung costs a few euros; the health restaurants in the centre charge Western prices.
When to go
The dry season runs April to October. July and August are dry but packed. April, May, June and September offer the best compromise.
From November to March it rains hard in the late afternoon, rarely all day.
What nobody tells you
Traffic in the centre has become difficult: a few kilometres can take forty minutes at peak hours.
Power cuts are regular in the rainy season, and many coworking spaces have no generator.