Why South Korea
The country fits within a five-hour train radius, and into it fit palaces of the Joseon dynasty, Buddhist temples clinging to granite massifs, a volcanic island in the south and a capital of ten million people that does not sleep.
Contemporary culture — music, series, cinema, food — has made the country familiar even before the visit, and that is a pleasant way in: the places you think you know turn out to be quite different on the ground.
Getting around
The high-speed train links Seoul to Busan in under three hours. Express coaches cover the rest of the territory cheaply and leave very frequently.
In Seoul, the metro is vast, punctual and entirely signed in English. A rechargeable transport card — sold in convenience stores — works on the metro, the buses and the taxis of the whole country, and saves buying single tickets.
Money
Cards are accepted absolutely everywhere, including for very small amounts and in taxis. Cash is almost useless.
Watch out for the ATMs, though: only those marked "Global" or installed in convenience stores accept foreign cards. Tipping does not exist and can cause discomfort.
Before you go
Hiking is a national sport, and the massifs around Seoul are stormed at weekends. Going on a weekday entirely changes the experience.
In restaurants, the side dishes — banchan — are served automatically, free, and refilled on request. You do not pay for them, and you do not waste them.
The codes of politeness are explicit: you receive and give with both hands, you do not plant your chopsticks in the rice, and you wait for the eldest at the table to begin. These gestures are noticed, in one direction as in the other.