In short
Busan is built between mountains and sea, which gives it constant relief and views Seoul does not have. Haeundae and Gwangalli are urban beaches served by the metro.
Gamcheon culture village, a quarter of coloured houses clinging to the slope, grew out of a Korean War refugee camp.
What it really costs
Busan costs markedly less than Seoul for housing, for the country's second city. The KTX puts Seoul two and a half hours away.
Jagalchi fish market, the largest in Korea, serves fish chosen at the stall and cooked upstairs for a modest price.
What nobody tells you
The June–July rainy season and the August–September typhoons hit Busan harder than Seoul, because of its coastal position.
Haedong Yonggungsa temple, built at the water's edge, is one of the few coastal temples in Korea. It is an hour from the centre and saturated at weekends.
The Busan film festival, in October, fills the city and pushes accommodation prices up. It is booked ahead.