In short
Seoul is cut in two by the Han river. To the north, Gangbuk keeps the palaces, the old lanes and the universities; to the south, Gangnam is the business and consumer district built from the 1970s. The opposition between the two shapes the city and its social imagination.
Bukchon preserves hanok, traditional houses, between two palaces. Hongdae is the student and music quarter. Itaewon is the most international. Myeongdong is commercial and very busy.
Arriving and getting around
Incheon is one of the highest-rated airports in the world, an hour from the centre on the AREX train. Gimpo, closer in, serves domestic and regional flights.
The metro is exceptional: dense, punctual, signed in English, with mobile coverage in the tunnels. The T-money card is bought in convenience stores and works on the metro, buses and taxis.
Seoul is hilly: stations often have ten exits and picking the wrong one costs you a hill.
What it really costs
Seoul is more expensive than most Asian capitals, accommodation above all, but eating remains affordable.
Jjimjilbang, public baths open through the night, sometimes serve as fallback accommodation for a modest sum.
When to come
April–June and September–November. Spring gives the cherry blossom, autumn the colours and the clearest sky of the year.
The monsoon falls in July–August, with strong heat and humidity. Winter is dry and very cold, under the influence of Siberian air.
Fine particulates are a real local subject in spring; air quality indices are consulted daily by residents.
What nobody tells you
Palace entry is free for anyone wearing a hanbok, the traditional dress, hired from nearby shops. It is an official and very widespread practice, Koreans included.
Bukchon is an inhabited neighbourhood, not a museum: signs ask for silence and limit visiting hours, following complaints from residents.
The changing of the guard at Gyeongbokgung takes place several times a day and is watched for nothing.
Trips to the DMZ, the demilitarised zone, are made only through an approved operator, with a passport, and can be cancelled without notice depending on circumstances. Some areas are not always accessible.