In short
Nosy Be is an island off north-western Madagascar, nicknamed "the perfume island" for its ylang-ylang plantations, whose scent genuinely carries in some quarters.
Hell-Ville, the capital — a name inherited from a French admiral, not a description — is the port and administrative centre. Ambatoloaka holds the hotels and nightlife. Mount Passot and its crater lakes overlook the island.
Around it lie the islets that make up most of the appeal: Nosy Komba, Nosy Tanikely, Nosy Iranja.
Arriving and getting around
Fascène airport takes flights from Antananarivo and, in season, some direct links from Europe — which allows the capital to be skipped.
The island covers about three hundred square kilometres. Shared taxis and motorcycles handle journeys; trips to the islets go by motorised pirogue or speedboat.
Malaria is present in Madagascar. Consult a doctor or a travel health centre before departure for appropriate prophylaxis.
What it really costs
Nosy Be is more expensive than the mainland, but remains affordable compared with other Indian Ocean destinations.
Boat trips are the main item; rates are negotiated and vary considerably by season.
When to come
April–November is the dry season, the best period.
Cyclone season runs from November to April: heavy rain, interrupted sea links, some establishments closed.
What nobody tells you
Whale sharks frequent the waters of Nosy Be from about September to December. They are protected animals: swimming with them is governed by a code of conduct — minimum distance, no contact, limited number of swimmers. Choosing an operator who applies it is not a detail.
Humpback whales pass from July to September, mainly around Nosy Boraha (Sainte Marie), on the other side of the island — not here.
Nosy Tanikely is a marine reserve with an entry fee: the best snorkelling reachable in a day, and visitor numbers there are regulated.
On Nosy Komba, the black lemurs are used to human presence and guides offer to let you feed them. This is inadvisable: it alters their behaviour and their diet, and several conservation organisations condemn it.