In short
Lima sits on cliffs above the Pacific, in a coastal desert: it practically never rains, but a low mist, the garúa, covers the city half the year.
Miraflores is the visitors' district, on the clifftop. Barranco, just to the south, is more bohemian, with its coloured houses and its art scene. The Centro Histórico, World Heritage listed, is half an hour north. San Isidro is the business quarter.
Arriving and getting around
Jorge Chávez airport is to the north-west; the crossing to Miraflores can take an hour depending on traffic, which is the city's real subject.
The Metropolitano, a bus rapid transit line, is the most reliable way to cross Lima north to south. Ride-hailing apps are in common use.
The Malecón links Miraflores to Barranco over several kilometres of clifftop parks: the best walking route in the city.
What it really costs
Lima is more affordable than most South American capitals, but its high-end cooking is at international rates.
The midday menús, fixed-price set meals served everywhere, remain the best value.
When to come
December–April is the southern summer: clear skies, warmth, usable sea.
From May to November the garúa settles in: permanent grey, humidity, without real rain. It is not cold, but it is dull — many travellers are surprised not to see the sun for a whole week.
What nobody tells you
Lima is a recognised world food capital, and its most celebrated tables are booked weeks, sometimes months ahead. Ceviche is eaten at midday, when the fish is that day's — cebicherías often close in the early afternoon.
Huaca Pucllana, an adobe pyramid predating the Incas, stands in the middle of Miraflores, between the apartment blocks. You can visit it and dine alongside.
The Circuito Mágico del Agua, a park of illuminated fountains, is a popular local attraction more than a tourist site.
The Pacific currents are cold all year, summer included: the water temperature around Lima is nothing like tropical despite the latitude.