Wat Pho, the Reclining Buddha

Wat Pho is older than Bangkok: the temple existed before the city became the capital, and Rama I had it rebuilt in 1788. The reclining Buddha dates from 1832 — forty-six metres long, fifteen high, brick covered in plaster then gold leaf. It lies on its right side, which represents the passing into nirvana, not rest.

The soles of the feet are worth the trip as much as the rest: three metres of inlaid mother-of-pearl, a hundred and eight panels showing the auspicious signs by which a true Buddha is identified.

The temple is also Thailand's first university. Rama III had everything then known of medicine, astrology and literature carved onto the walls and steles, so the knowledge would outlive the loss of books. The Thai massage school comes from that, still working inside the grounds, where a massage costs about as much as a meal.