In short
Pokhara is Nepal's second city and its opposite: set on the shore of Phewa Lake, at only 800 metres, it is calm, green and breathable where Kathmandu is dense and polluted.
It is above all the gateway to the Annapurnas: the range rises less than thirty kilometres away, and Machhapuchhre, the "fish tail", dominates the town. It is one of the few places in the world where 8,000-metre peaks are visible from a lakeshore.
Lakeside is the visitors' quarter, along the water.
Arriving and getting around
The bus from Kathmandu takes six to eight hours depending on the state of the road; the domestic flight takes half an hour but depends on the weather.
Lakeside is walked. Sarangkot, the ridge above the town where people watch sunrise over the Annapurnas, is reached by taxi or on foot.
Trekking permits for the region are obtained here as in Kathmandu.
What it really costs
Pokhara is cheap, including for long stays — it is a favoured remote-work base, with the usual caveats about the reliability of the connection and the electricity.
The shorter treks, such as Poon Hill over four to five days, remain within a modest budget.
When to come
October–November and March–April, as for all of Nepal.
During the monsoon, June to September, the mountains are invisible for weeks: most of the point of Pokhara disappears.
What nobody tells you
Pokhara is one of the best paragliding sites in the world: take-off is at Sarangkot, with the Annapurnas opposite and the lake below. Tandem flights are common and require no experience.
Annapurna Base Camp takes seven to twelve days and climbs to about 4,130 metres; Poon Hill takes four and tops out around 3,200 metres. Both leave from here and do not make the same demands — the two are frequently confused at booking.
The World Peace Pagoda, on the southern shore, is reached by boat then an hour on foot, and gives the overall view of the lake and the range.
A compulsory guide rule has been introduced for some Annapurna treks; its application has varied. Check it with the Nepal Tourism Board before setting off alone.
