In short
Marrakech is lived as two cities that barely communicate. The medina, enclosed by its walls, is dense, loud and labyrinthine; the riads hide behind anonymous doors. Guéliz, the new town built under the protectorate, is gridded and modern, and it is where most settled foreigners live.
Hivernage is the quarter of the large hotels. The Palmeraie, to the north, is a zone of villas and resorts twenty minutes out.
The Atlas is an hour's drive away: you can work through the week and sleep at altitude at the weekend.
Arriving and getting around
Ménara airport is fifteen minutes from the centre. Bus 19 links the airport to the medina and Guéliz for a fraction of a taxi fare.
The small city taxis are beige and are required to use the meter; they often refuse and quote a price instead. Asking before getting in, or insisting on the meter, changes the fare threefold.
The medina can only be crossed on foot. Cars do not enter beyond a few through-routes, and two-wheelers move fast in narrow lanes.
What it really costs
A decent flat in Guéliz costs twice a shared riad room in the medina, but it is air-conditioned and quiet.
Eating in the street costs a few euros; hotel restaurants and the terraces on Jemaa el-Fna charge European prices.
When to come
March–May and October–November. Summer regularly passes forty degrees and the medina, stone-built and shadeless, becomes punishing by day.
Winter is mild by day and cold at night — many riads are poorly heated, which catches people out.
What nobody tells you
Fake guides approach at the medina gates and steer you to shops that pay them commission. Official guides carry a laminated card issued by the ministry: that is the only reliable test.
Haggling is the rule in the souks and is not aggressive: it is a conversation, it takes time, and the first price quoted is usually double or triple.
During Ramadan, many medina restaurants close during the day outside tourist areas, and hours change everywhere.
Photographs of people, notably the water carriers and snake charmers on Jemaa el-Fna, are paid for. Taking one without asking brings an immediate demand.