In short
Istanbul straddles two continents, separated by the Bosphorus, and that shapes everything — including journey times.
Sultanahmet, on the European side, holds Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and Topkapı; it is the historic and most touristed zone. Beyoğlu, around Istiklal and Galata, is the nineteenth-century city and the nightlife. Kadıköy and Moda, on the Asian side, are residential, young and much cheaper. Balat and Fener are the old Greek and Jewish quarters, in full transformation.
The historic areas of Sultanahmet and its surroundings are World Heritage listed.
Arriving and getting around
Two airports, on two continents. Istanbul Airport (IST) is to the north-west, on the European side; Sabiha Gökçen (SAW) is on the Asian side. Getting them mixed up costs two hours. Métro M11 links IST to the centre; SAW has only buses and métro M4.
Everything runs on the Istanbulkart: métro, tram, bus, funiculars and the Bosphorus ferries. Those are public transport at the ordinary fare, not excursions — the cheapest and finest way to cross.
What it really costs
Istanbul remains affordable for a metropolis of its size, but Turkish inflation is high and prices move fast: a range quoted six months ago no longer holds.
Eating at a neighbourhood lokanta costs a fraction of a Sultanahmet restaurant.
When to come
April–May and September–October. Summer is hot and humid, winter grey, windy and sometimes snowy.
What nobody tells you
Carpet sellers and the "friends" who strike up conversation in Sultanahmet follow a well-worn script that ends in a shop or in a bar with an inflated bill. That last case — the bar scam — mainly targets men on their own and can cost a great deal.
Working mosques close to visitors during prayers, five times a day. Hagia Sophia reopened for worship in 2020 and its visiting regime has changed since: check before going.
The Grand Bazaar closes on Sundays. The Basilica Cistern and Topkapı impose time slots and long queues in season.
Shoulders, knees and hair covered for women in mosques; scarves are lent at the door.
