In short
Geneva is an international city before it is a Swiss one: the UN, the Red Cross, the WHO and dozens of organisations are based here, and a large share of the population is foreign.
It is also almost entirely enclosed by France: many people who work here live on the other side of the border, minutes away.
The Vieille-Ville, on the hill, is the historic core around Saint-Pierre cathedral. Les Pâquis, on the right bank, is working-class and cosmopolitan. Carouge, to the south, is a former Sardinian township with an Italian feel.
Arriving and getting around
The airport has a French sector, from which you can enter and leave on the French side without passing through Switzerland — useful depending on where the trip is really going.
The train links the airport to the centre in seven minutes. Accommodation providers issue a free transport card valid for the whole stay.
Geneva is compact and walkable. The Mouettes, small yellow boats, cross the harbour and are part of the transport network.
What it really costs
Geneva is among the most expensive cities in the world.
Shopping in neighbouring France is a common practice among residents, and the price difference is considerable. Mind the customs allowances on re-entering Switzerland.
When to come
May–September for the lake and the mountains. Winter is cold and often overcast, with the bise, a dry, freezing north-easterly.
What nobody tells you
CERN can be visited free of charge. The European particle physics laboratory, on the border, offers exhibitions open to the public and guided tours — the latter are booked ahead and go quickly.
The Jet d'eau was not originally decorative: it began as a safety valve for a hydraulic plant in the nineteenth century, before being moved and kept as an emblem. It is switched off in high wind and in freezing conditions.
The Bains des Pâquis, a public jetty on the lake, are open all year for a minimal sum: swimming in summer, sauna and fondue in winter. It is the most democratic institution in the city.
The Mont Salève, which overlooks Geneva, is in France; the cable car leaves from Veyrier, at the border, and gives the view over the city, the lake and Mont Blanc.