In short
Dahab is what Sharm el-Sheikh is not: a low-rise seaside village without large complexes, long favoured by long-haul travellers. The name means "gold" in Arabic, for the colour of the sand.
Masbat and Mashraba form the seafront promenade where everything happens. Assalah is the original Bedouin quarter. The Lagoon, to the south, is a shallow stretch of water where people learn to kitesurf.
Arriving and getting around
The nearest airport is Sharm el-Sheikh, about an hour and a half away by road. Buses link the two towns.
The village is covered entirely on foot along the promenade. For the northern dive sites, the centres arrange transfers.
The same entry conditions as elsewhere in the Sinai resorts apply: the free permit issued on arrival at Sharm does not cover excursions outside the zone, and depends on nationality. Check with the relevant consulate.
What it really costs
Dahab is markedly cheaper than Sharm el-Sheikh: small guesthouses, seafront restaurants, long stays. It is a credible remote-work base, with the caveats that follow on connectivity.
Diving here is among the cheapest in the Red Sea, which explains the number of training centres.
When to come
March–May and October–November. Summer is very hot; winter is mild by day and cold at night, with a steady northerly wind.
What nobody tells you
The Blue Hole is a dive site that has killed many divers. It is an underwater shaft with a passage, the Arch, at about fifty-five metres — well beyond recreational diving limits. The accidents involve poorly trained or poorly equipped divers attempting that passage. Snorkelling at the surface or diving along the reef, the site is superb and carries no particular danger: the distinction is vital.
Power cuts are ordinary and the internet connection is irregular. Anyone planning to work here should have a mobile fallback.
Mount Sinai and Saint Catherine's Monastery are about two hours away by road: the night climb for sunrise is the classic excursion.
