In short
Casablanca is not a tourist city, and understanding that avoids disappointment. It is Morocco's economic capital, its largest city, a port and a business centre. Those looking for a picture-postcard medina are in the wrong place; those coming to see contemporary Morocco are in the right one.
The city centre keeps an Art Deco and neo-Moorish ensemble from the 1920s–1930s of rare density, largely built under the protectorate. The Habous quarter, or new medina, is a planned ensemble from the same period. The Aïn Diab Corniche lines up the beaches and clubs.
Arriving and getting around
Mohammed V airport is the country's main hub. A rail line links it directly to Casa-Voyageurs station, which avoids the taxi.
The tramway covers the main axes. Petits taxis are red here; ask for the meter.
Casa-Voyageurs is the long-distance station, including the Al Boraq high-speed train to Rabat and Tangier. Casa-Port serves the centre and the coastal line.
What it really costs
Casablanca is the most expensive city in Morocco to live in, driven by business rents. Eating out covers every level.
Many hotels target business travellers: rates fall at weekends, the reverse of tourist cities.
When to come
April–June and September–November. The ocean climate tempers summer; winter is mild and wet.
There is no marked tourist high season: the city runs at its own pace all year.
What nobody tells you
The Hassan II Mosque is one of the few mosques in Morocco open to non-Muslims, by guided tour and ticket. Its minaret reaches 210 metres and part of the building stands over the water. It is the main reason to stop in Casablanca.
Rick's Café is not a filming location. Casablanca was shot entirely on sound stages in California; the café was created in 2004 by a former American diplomat, after the set. It is a good restaurant, not a monument.
The Villa des Arts and the slaughterhouse converted into a cultural works show a contemporary scene nobody comes to Casablanca looking for.