In short
Athens is a low, sprawling city dominated by a rock. You cross its centre on foot, between Monastiraki, Plaka and Thissio, and the Acropolis is visible from almost anywhere — which makes orientation easy.
The neighbourhoods change from one block to the next. Koukaki and Pangrati are residential, pleasant and close to the centre. Exarcheia is political, lively and covered in graffiti. Kypseli is working-class and changing. Omonia and the streets north of the square are still best avoided at night.
Arriving and getting around
From the airport, métro line 3 reaches Syntagma in about forty minutes, with a specific airport ticket costing more than the city fare. The X95 bus does the same trip for less, more slowly, and runs at night when the métro is closed.
Piraeus is the port for the Cyclades and Crete, reached by métro line 1. Rafina and Lavrio, the two other ports, are served only by KTEL coach — getting that wrong costs a day.
The métro is clean, fast and air-conditioned. A single ticket is valid for ninety minutes across the whole network, transfers included.
What it really costs
Athens remains markedly cheaper than the capitals of Western Europe, for housing as for eating out. It is one reason for its community of settled foreigners.
The neighbourhood taverna serves for a fraction of the Plaka tables, which charge frankly touristic prices. Walking two streets away from the Acropolis halves the bill.
When to come
April–May and October–November. The Athenian summer regularly passes forty degrees and the city, stone-built and shadeless, becomes punishing by day. Winter is mild, often sunny, and a good season for the sites.
What nobody tells you
The Acropolis requires a booked time slot in high season and closes earlier in winter. The combined ticket for the ancient sites, valid several days, pays for itself from the third site on.
The Acropolis marble is slippery, polished by millions of footsteps. Smooth soles are a real hazard there, more than the gradient.
Transport strikes happen and are announced in advance, sometimes only the day before. Check before relying on the métro to reach a flight.