In short
Udaipur is built around lakes dug in the sixteenth century. The City Palace, the largest in Rajasthan, lines Lake Pichola; the Lake Palace occupies an island in the middle of it.
It is the calmest and safest of Rajasthan's major stops, with a centre that is entirely walkable.
What it really costs
Staying in a restored haveli, a traditional courtyard house, costs little and often comes with a terrace over the lake. It is the best value in Rajasthan.
Rajasthani distances are long: Jodhpur is five hours by road, Jaisalmer eleven. The night train is the cheapest way.
What nobody tells you
The lakes are man-made and fed by the monsoon. After a dry season their level drops sharply and the Lake Palace can end up surrounded by mud rather than water.
The City Palace has several separate tickets: the courtyard, the museum, the crystal gallery. Check what yours covers before paying.
Haveli touts wait at the bus station and claim your booked hotel has closed. It is the same ploy as in Delhi.
