In short
Reykjavik is the northernmost capital of a sovereign state, and Europe's smallest by population — about a hundred and forty thousand people. It is covered entirely on foot.
Hallgrímskirkja, the church whose form evokes basalt columns, dominates the city from its hill. Laugavegur is the shopping street. Harpa, a concert hall by the harbour, is the emblematic contemporary building.
Nobody comes to Iceland for Reykjavik, but it is the base for almost everything.
Arriving and getting around
Keflavík airport is fifty kilometres from the city, linked by regular buses — allow forty-five minutes.
The city is walked. For the rest of the country, a car is necessary; the interior roads, known as F-roads, require a 4×4 and are open only in summer.
Checking vedur.is for weather and road.is for road conditions is a daily local habit in winter, not excessive caution.
What it really costs
Iceland is one of the most expensive countries in Europe. Eating out and alcohol are the most visible items; alcohol is sold only in state shops (Vínbúðin), with limited hours.
Tap water is excellent and free: the cold water comes straight from springs. The hot water is geothermal and smells of sulphur — this is normal.
When to come
June–August: endless days, open roads, accessible highlands.
September–March for the northern lights, which need clear skies, darkness and patience. None is guaranteed.
What nobody tells you
The neighbourhood geothermal pools are the country's social institution, and cost a fraction of the tourist spas. Showering naked and with soap before entering the pool is compulsory and monitored: the pools are lightly chlorinated, and the rule is not negotiable. The signs are explicit.
The Blue Lagoon is not in Reykjavik but near the airport, on the Reykjanes peninsula, and is booked in advance. That peninsula has seen a series of volcanic eruptions since late 2023, causing temporary closures of the site and evacuations in the Grindavík area. Check opening status and instructions with the establishment and with Icelandic civil protection (safetravel.is) before booking.
Icelanders have no surnames but patronymics: directories are ordered by first name.