Why Rwanda
Volcanoes National Park shelters a population of mountain gorillas, and approaching them — an hour in the presence of a habituated group — is one of the most powerful wildlife encounters there is. It is expensive, rationed, and that is what has allowed the species to recover.
The country does not come down to that: the Nyungwe forest and its chimpanzees, Lake Kivu, and Kigali, a clean, safe and organised capital. The memorial to the 1994 genocide is a difficult and necessary passage.
Getting around
The country is small: four hours by road is enough to cross it. The main roads are paved and in good condition, which is rare in the region.
Private company buses link the cities on fixed schedules and cheaply. For Volcanoes National Park, a car or an organised transfer is necessary to reach the assembly point at dawn.
Money
Cash dominates outside Kigali. Mobile payment is very widespread among Rwandans but requires a local line — a prepaid SIM card is easily obtained with a passport.
ATMs are reliable in the cities. The gorilla permit is settled beforehand, in foreign currency, and on its own represents most of the trip's budget.
Before you go
The gorilla trekking permit is issued in your name, at a high rate set by the state, and the daily number of visitors is strictly limited: it is booked several months in advance, above all in the dry season.
Single-use plastic bags are banned and confiscated on arrival, including those holding belongings inside a suitcase. This is seriously enforced.
On the last Saturday of the month, Umuganda — compulsory community work — closes businesses and transport until midday. That is anticipated in an itinerary.
Photographing official buildings, military personnel or police is forbidden.