Why Laos
It is the least populated and most peaceful country on the peninsula, landlocked, crossed from north to south by the Mekong. You do not come here to tick off sites but to slow down: Luang Prabang and its monasteries, the turquoise waterfalls, the Plain of Jars, the four thousand islands of the south.
The monks' morning alms round in Luang Prabang is the country's most photographed ritual, and the one most damaged by crowds — you watch from a distance, in silence, or not at all.
Getting around
The high-speed railway linking the Chinese border to Vientiane via Luang Prabang has transformed travel: a few hours for what took a whole day of mountain road. Tickets go quickly and are booked in advance.
Elsewhere, coaches and minibuses remain slow and the roads winding. Going down the Mekong by slow boat, over two days, is a journey in itself.
Money
The country runs on cash. ATMs exist in the cities but withdrawal ceilings are low and commissions high; cards are accepted only in hotels.
The depreciation of the kip makes prices vary from one month to the next, and tourist businesses sometimes quote in dollars or Thai baht. Paying in kip remains better value.
Before you go
Laos is the most heavily bombed country in history relative to its population, and unexploded ordnance remains a danger in the east and north-east. The rule is simple and admits no exception: stay on the paths.
Home-made spirits served in some bars in Vang Vieng have caused serious methanol poisonings. Spirits in a sealed bottle of a known brand, or the local beer, remove the risk.
The monasteries require shoulders and knees covered, and as a woman you do not touch a monk or hand him an object directly.