In short
Lyon reads across two rivers and three levels. Vieux Lyon, Renaissance, at the foot of Fourvière, is World Heritage listed along with the Presqu'île and the Croix-Rousse. The Presqu'île, between the Saône and the Rhône, is the shopping and nightlife centre. The Croix-Rousse, on its hill, is the old silk-weavers' quarter. La Confluence, to the south, is the contemporary district.
The traboules are private passageways cutting through buildings, opened to the public by agreement. They are not signposted: you have to know the doors, or follow a map.
Arriving and getting around
The Rhônexpress tram links Saint-Exupéry airport to Part-Dieu in half an hour. It has its own fare, markedly higher than the city ticket.
Two stations: Part-Dieu for the TGV and most trains, Perrache for the south and regional services. Going to the wrong one costs twenty minutes on the métro.
The TCL network covers métro, tram, bus and two funiculars up to Fourvière and Saint-Just, included in the ordinary ticket.
What it really costs
Lyon is markedly cheaper than Paris for housing, and that is one reason for its pull.
The bouchons lyonnais are traditional restaurants with decent fixed prices. The "Bouchon lyonnais certifié" label distinguishes the authentic from the imitations — the distinction is worth looking for.
When to come
May–June and September–October. Summer is hot and the city empties in August.
The Fête des Lumières, in early December, transforms the city over four evenings and fills every hotel. Seek it out or avoid it, but do not discover it on arrival.
What nobody tells you
The banks of the Rhône and the Saône are laid out for walking and cycling over kilometres: it is the best way to link the districts without the métro.
The Croix-Rousse market, Tuesday to Sunday morning, and the Halles Paul Bocuse are two different worlds: the first is popular and cheap, the second is high-end.
Fourvière is reached by funicular, but the montée des Chazeaux and its three hundred and ninety steps give the best panorama, for nothing.