In short
Doha holds almost all of Qatar's population around a crescent bay. The city has transformed itself within a generation, and the 2022 World Cup accelerated the building of infrastructure that now serves visitors.
The Corniche traces the bay over seven kilometres. Souq Waqif is the restored market, the liveliest place in the city in the evening. Msheireb is a central district rebuilt in a contemporary Qatari architecture. Katara is a cultural village to the north. West Bay lines up the towers.
Arriving and getting around
Hamad airport is one of the world's major hubs: many travellers transit through Doha without leaving it, when a long layover is enough to see the city.
The metro, opened in 2019, is excellent: three lines, air-conditioned, very cheap, with free shuttles between stations and nearby destinations. It serves the airport, the Corniche, the souq and the museums.
What it really costs
Doha is expensive for accommodation but the metro and taxis are affordable.
Alcohol is sold only to licence holders and served in authorised hotels. There is no ordinary retail trade in alcohol.
When to come
November–March. Summer is extreme: from May to September, temperatures often exceed 45 °C, and the country has developed air-conditioned spaces extending even into some streets.
What nobody tells you
The Museum of Islamic Art, the last major building designed by I. M. Pei, holds one of the most complete collections of Islamic art in the world, on an artificial island. Its park gives the best view of the West Bay towers.
The National Museum of Qatar, by Jean Nouvel, takes the form of interlocking discs inspired by the desert rose. It surrounds and preserves the old royal palace.
The "inland sea" of Khor Al Adaid, to the south, is one of the few places in the world where the desert meets the sea directly. It is a UNESCO-recognised reserve, reachable only by 4×4 with an operator.
Dress and conduct rules apply to visitors: shoulders and knees covered in public places, no public displays of affection. They are posted and reiterated.
Doha is noted for a very low level of crime.