In short
Christchurch is a city you visit knowing what happened to it. The earthquakes of 2010 and above all of 22 February 2011, which killed 185 people, destroyed much of the centre. What stands today is a reconstruction still under way.
The centre mixes new buildings, empty lots and strengthened old façades. New Regent Street, a pastel 1930s lane, survived. Riverside Market is the covered market in the centre. Sumner and Lyttelton, beyond the hills, are the seaside districts.
Arriving and getting around
Christchurch airport is the main gateway to the South Island and the logical starting point for a circuit towards the Southern Alps, Kaikoura or Aoraki/Mount Cook.
The city is flat and rides very well: the cycle network was extended during the rebuild. Buses converge on the central Bus Interchange.
The TranzAlpine, linking Christchurch to Greymouth across Arthur's Pass, is one of the world's great scenic railways and can be done as a day return.
What it really costs
Housing is markedly cheaper than in Auckland or Queenstown, which makes Christchurch a serious budget base for exploring the South Island.
Car hire is often better value here than in Queenstown, and many itineraries start here.
When to come
December–March for the warm season. Autumn (March–May) gives the garden colours, which are the local pride.
The nor'wester, a hot dry wind off the Alps, blows in spells and completely changes how the temperature feels.
What nobody tells you
The Transitional Cathedral, known as the cardboard cathedral, was designed by the architect Shigeru Ban after the earthquake, with load-bearing cardboard tubes. It was meant to be temporary and is still in use.
The memorial of 185 white chairs, an installation of chairs painted white, one for each victim, is not signposted as an attraction. It is visited in silence.
The Port Hills are climbed from the city and give the view over the Canterbury plain on one side and Lyttelton harbour on the other.
