In short
The Algarve is not a town but Portugal's southernmost region, and it changes character from east to west. The east, around Tavira and the Ria Formosa, is a lagoon of barrier islands, calm and little built up. The centre, from Albufeira to Lagos, holds the ochre cliffs, the coves and mass tourism. The west, beyond Sagres, turns to the Atlantic: wind, swell, and the protected Costa Vicentina.
Choosing your base among these three Algarves decides the trip.
Arriving and getting around
Faro airport serves the whole region, with abundant European low-cost flights.
A railway line runs from Lagos to Vila Real de Santo António along the coast, serving Faro, Tavira and Albufeira. It is slow but cheap.
The coves and remote beaches need a car. The finest are at the foot of cliffs, at the end of minor roads.
What it really costs
The Algarve is Portugal's most expensive region in summer and one of its most affordable in winter — the seasonal gap is considerable.
Albufeira and Vilamoura run on resort prices; Tavira, Olhão and the hinterland remain far cheaper.
When to come
April–June and September–October: the water is swimmable, prices are reasonable, and the region is not saturated.
July–August is full, expensive and noisy on the central coast.
Winter is mild and sunny, but part of the trade closes.
What nobody tells you
Access to the Benagil cave is regulated. Landing on its inner beach has been banned and navigation restricted following incidents and damage to the site. Boat trips pass without stopping; check exactly what an operator is selling before booking.
The Atlantic water is cold, even in August, and markedly colder on the west coast than the south. Several degrees separate Lagos from Sagres.
The Ria Formosa is a natural park: its islands are reached by boat from Faro, Olhão or Tavira, and hold empty beaches twenty minutes from the busiest ones.
The Rota Vicentina path, along the west coast, is walked in stages between villages.
