In short
Abu Dhabi is the capital of the United Arab Emirates and by far the largest of the seven emirates — Dubai is better known, but Abu Dhabi holds most of the oil reserves and the seat of federal power.
It is calmer and more institutional than its neighbour. Saadiyat Island holds the cultural project: museums, campuses, beaches. Yas Island holds the theme parks and the Formula 1 circuit. The Corniche runs along eight kilometres of seafront.
Arriving and getting around
Zayed airport is some thirty kilometres from the centre. Dubai is an hour and a half away by road and bus links are frequent.
There is no metro: the city is built for the car, the distances are long and taxis are the usual mode, at regulated fares.
What it really costs
Abu Dhabi is expensive, but often less so than Dubai for accommodation.
Alcohol is sold in licensed premises — authorised hotels and restaurants — and not in ordinary shops. Prices there are high.
When to come
November–March. Summer is extreme: from June to September, temperatures regularly exceed 45 °C with high humidity, and life takes place entirely in air-conditioned interiors.
The Formula 1 Grand Prix, late in the year at the Yas Marina circuit, pushes accommodation prices up sharply.
What nobody tells you
The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is free and open to non-Muslims, which is far from the case everywhere in the region. The dress code is strict and enforced: arms and legs covered for everyone, a headscarf for women. Abayas are lent on site, but stocks are limited at peak hours. Booking a slot is required — check the arrangements in force before going. It closes to visitors on Friday mornings.
The Louvre Abu Dhabi, designed by Jean Nouvel, operates under an intergovernmental agreement with France. Its perforated dome produces a "rain of light" that is the principal work of the place.
Liwa and the Rub al-Khali, the Empty Quarter — the largest continuous sand desert in the world — begin two and a half hours' drive to the south.
Rules of public conduct are stricter than in Dubai: decent dress away from hotel beaches, no public displays of affection.